SAX ON THE STREETS
Confessions of an American Street Musician in Europe

by Daniel Gordon


EXCERPT


Preface


If the street musician is reasonably well-groomed and even moderately talented, everybody loves him. Everybody, that is, except for irate shop owners who are annoyed by unsolicited disturbances outside their doors and power-hungry policemen who have nothing better to do than stop these harmless entertainers from doing their thing. Just about everyone else loves them. I’m not sure why; the romance of that wandering lifestyle seems to strike a special chord and arouse the latent bohemianism within everyone.

After two summers of street-musicianing, or “busking,” through thirteen European countries and an American city or two, I am by no means the foremost authority on the subject. I have never been a “hard-core” busker who played on the street full-time. I busked as an addendum to my travels, to cut costs as I went, and to have a different kind of experience than the usual tourist activities. But in chatting with other street musicians about the ins and outs of the trade, I found that we all faced similar issues, shared similar experiences, and generally went through a similar process whatever the act was, be it bagpipes, bongos, banjos, accordions, violins, or even spoons.

This book recounts the busking experiences I had with a college buddy as we traversed the Continent playing baroque duets on two saxophones. It tells a few tricks of the trade and expresses my feelings about the people, places, and things we encountered. Our busking was entirely peripatetic; that is, we learned everything by going, observing, playing, talking, and asking questions. This story is, therefore, not necessarily definitive on any of the topics discussed, but true to what we found along the way.

In telling it all, I hope to give a feeling for the kind of life these mysterious entertainers of the street lead: what goes on in their heads while on the street and what goes on in their lives while off it. For while everybody loves the street musician, few really know the street musician. And at the very least, I’m hopeful this tale will make you that much more willing to toss some spare change at the next busker you see.

Chapter 1:
Barcelona, Spain

Enjoy this Meal


It was an omen: I was standing on the information line at the train station in Barcelona, Spain, when from amid the commotion I suddenly heard someone yell, “Hey, Gordon, what are you doing here?” I spun around. Ten yards away stood my friend Gary, whom I hadn’t seen in half a year.

“Gary!” I hollered. “What the—You’re not supposed to—How can you—I DON’T BELIEVE IT!”

“How’d you know to meet me here, Dan?” he asked calmly.

“How did I know? I didn’t! I’m not here to meet you—you’re not even supposed to be in this country yet!” He wasn’t due in Spain for another few days. Our meeting was pure coincidence.

Or was it? I believe it was an omen about the good fortune to come in our travels as street musicians.

* * * *

Neither Gary nor I can remember exactly how, when, or why we decided to busk. The closest we can come to pinpointing the decision is some time during the previous winter, when I visited home and had a big party for the Christmas holidays. I had been in Barcelona for a year and a half teaching English, work I had stumbled upon after three months of post-college vagabonding across Europe. My visit home served as a college reunion of sorts at which I saw all my friends for the first time since I graduated. Gary, the foremost among those friends, showed up at the party and contracted a serious case of the travel bug as we discussed my life overseas. We made plans to meet up during the summer and travel together. The rest just fell into place. It was a foregone conclusion that if we were to travel together, we would try to pick up a little cash along the way by playing the same duets that we had so often played for nothing while studying saxophone together in college.

Just as we never consciously chose to busk, we never consciously decided how to put our act together either. We simply did what occurred to us naturally. That was to play on two soprano saxophones, since these were the smallest saxophones both of us had. We didn’t want to bring anything big if we could avoid it; the huge backpacks on our backs were enough to lug around already. We carried our instruments in little “gig bags”—sleek, padded, leather cases that were a lot easier to handle than standard wooden boxes.

Our soprano saxophones were curved, less common than the straight variety, and they proved to be a good choice for a couple of reasons. First, they were more compact than the straight kind, again making transport easier; and second, their uncommon shape attracted a lot of attention. Curious how a little curved soprano saxophone, which by the very nature of its curves made it entirely more identifiable as a saxophone, elicited so many questions. People asked in any variety of languages, What is that contraption? Is that thing a saxophone, or a toy? Are those special instruments for little children? How can you fit your hands on those tiny things? Countless times we answered, Yes, these are saxophones. Yes, soprano saxophones. Yes, they’re curved. Yes, they’re usually straight. After a while we grew so tired of explaining the same thing over and over that I would joke, Yes, this is a curved soprano saxophone. It used to be straight, but I accidentally sat on it. That crack usually got us an extra coin in the hat.

It was a hat that we collected our money in, only because our leather cases didn’t stay open by themselves. Any hat would have done, as long as it were stiff enough to keep its shape and deep enough to hold a lot of change. I’ve met buskers who use buckets, baskets, and inverted umbrellas to collect their money because they believe earnings increase in direct proportion to the size of the collection receptacle. I have no basis to determine if there is any truth to this theory; we couldn’t experiment because we had to travel light. For our purposes, a fisherman’s hat, which was of negligible weight and space, worked fine. We simply placed it in front of us and tossed in a little of our own change to start off. No stopping to walk around holding the hat out and asking for donations—that’s begging. We just left the hat out there, as if to say, Here’s our music, if you like it, throw a bit of change in, if not, fine. And that was how we liked it, even if we made less money that way.

Our repertory consisted of several volumes of baroque flute duets by Georg Philipp Telemann. Baroque music on saxophones is somewhat of a musical oddity since the saxophone was invented 100 years after the baroque period. But as classically trained musicians, both Gary and I had been brought up on Telemann, so that’s what we went with. Actually, the soprano saxophone adapts remarkably well to baroque flute music. The two instruments have almost identical ranges, so we read straight off the flute parts and it worked great. In fact, for busking purposes, soprano saxophones might even be more effective than flutes because their sound carries much farther. And they certainly attract a lot more attention. Nobody expects to hear saxophones playing baroque music. Add that to the visual curiosity aroused by our peculiar little instruments, and it gave both an aural and visual surprise—all the more reason to stop, listen, and drop a few coins in the hat.

We used music bound in book form, with both parts printed on a page. That way we needed only one fold-up wire music stand, which is easily stored and carried. With a book, no loose pages flapped around in the breeze. A few clothes pins kept the whole book from flying away, and when heavy wind threatened to blow the entire stand over, we held it down on the ground with one foot. The clothes pins created a problem with page turns, but a few strategically-placed photocopies fixed that. Once we’d resolved all these little difficulties, we had four complete books and about 2½ hours of trouble-free Telemann. And one final touch, which we learned after repeatedly answering the same questions about what music we were playing: We left one volume of the unused books turned face-out on the music stand so that passers-by could see the title. It saved answering the same question.

Our earnings might have been higher if we had played more popular music, but we weren’t into it. We felt like going with what we knew best, and that was classical music. Playing more popular music for the sake of making more money would have been “selling out” to some extent. Besides, there is something to be said for making it with what you really do best, no matter how esoteric it may be. To know there’s a way to get by without having to compromise the thing that gives you the most satisfaction—hey, that’s where most of the kick comes from.

As for our travel itinerary, our only plans were to head from Spain in a general northeasterly direction toward Scandinavia. We had arrangements to participate a month later in a volunteer camp in Norway where we would paint an old fishing boat among the fjords at the northern tip of the Continent. I had participated in a similar volunteer program in Hungary the previous summer and found these “workcamps” to be an enjoyable and cheap way to travel. They offered an alternative to the usual tourist activities and were a great way to meet other volunteers from around the world. Gary and I hoped to visit a few friends from my previous workcamps as we went.

That was our basic game plan. We had no idea how much our act would earn, nor how much we’d play every day; we didn’t even know exactly where we would go. But we did know that we’d at least cut our travel expenses with our music, and no doubt have a blast as we went.

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